Our Journey Through Morocco: Casablanca to Fez

This is modern-day Morocco with hundreds of rooftop satellite dishes.

Morocco is a country where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with modern life, creating a tapestry of experiences that was captivating to us on day one. This North African kingdom offers a sensory feast of vibrant colors, aromatic spices, and warm hospitality that leaves an indelible mark on your soul. In this post, I’d like to give you a more in-depth overview of our trip—citing the cities we visited, the places we stayed, and a bit about the culture, food, and people. 

The Cities We Visited

My daughter (who lives in California) and I take an annual mother-daughter trip. This time we decided to go to Morocco and Portugal for two weeks. We knew very little about either country and thought we would love Portugal and maybe not so much Morocco. Turned out it was just the opposite!

Our trip started in Miami with a 9-hour direct overnight flight to Casablanca. We only spent one night in Casablanca, taking a train the next day to Rabat. As an artist I had read about the “blue” city of Chefchaouen so that was my priority. After a few days walking the streets and markets of Rabat, we took a bus to Chefchaouen. It was amazing—centuries old buildings and streets with a charm I had never experienced—not only the architecture but the kindness we found in the people. 

Casablanca. We had planned to spend one night just to get over our jet lag. (no photos)

Rabat, the elegant capital, exudes a refined charm with its wide boulevards, manicured gardens, and amazing markets. The city strikes a perfect balance between political importance and cultural heritage, offering visitors a glimpse into Morocco's governmental center alongside historical treasures. It is here we met a university student who taught us about arranged marriages and the way in which he would approach a potential bride with the blessings of both sets of parents. 

Chefchaouen felt like stepping into a dream, with its famous blue-painted buildings cascading down the Rif Mountains like a watercolor painting. This mountain town offers a peaceful retreat where narrow cobblestone streets wind past azure walls and local artisans craft their wares. We had to climb many steps through the winding streets to finally arrive at Riad Mosaic, our little apartment in Chefchaouen. I took hundreds of photographs as I often use them when creating my abstract and mixed media paintings. My daughter took this photo of me posing with a live hawk. Its owner had it trained to perch on your shoulder, give you a "kiss" on the cheek, and then to perch on your gloved hand so that he could hand it off to another tourist!

One evening we were able to hike up to an overlook where we could see a view of the city just as the sun was setting. I’ve never seen anything like this! It was a spectacular site–every shade of blue can be seen and experienced in one city. I can feel the inspiration and ideas of using blue paints to create my next mixed media artworks!

Chefchaouen, also known as the Blue City in northern Morocco.

Fez transports you back in time to medieval Morocco, home to the world's oldest continuously operating university and a medina (city center) so intricate it feels like a living museum. The spiritual and intellectual capital showcases Morocco's rich Islamic heritage through its stunning architecture and scholarly traditions. We hired a local guide to walk us through the maze of the marketplace stalls and give us the fascinating history of the city as well as taking us to his family’s antiques shop which had jewelry, religious artifacts, and artworks dating back more than a thousand years.

Markets and Medinas (city centers)

Each city's market (called souks) tells its own story through the goods it sells and the people who frequent it. We visited a tannery where we saw the dried hides arrive on burrows, processed by hand on rooftops by immersing them in chemicals to soften and dye the hides, and were hung to dry. These hides of cows, goats, sheep, and camels were then sewn into garments, handbags, belts, luggage, and other goods. We were told that camel was the best leather.

Rabat's souks maintain an organized elegance befitting the capital, with carpet sellers and pottery merchants displaying their wares in less chaotic but equally authentic settings. The Rabat's markets feel more spacious and navigable than their counterparts elsewhere.

The markets in Chefchaouen specialize in locally-made textiles, particularly wool garments and woven goods that reflect the town's Berber heritage. Most people here wore the djellaba (or spelled jellaba) which are loose-fitting hooded robes worn by both men and women. Vendors here tend to be more relaxed, matching the town's laid-back mountain atmosphere.

Fez boasts one of the world's most extraordinary markets within its ancient medina. The labyrinthine souks are organized by craft, from the famous leather tanneries with their rainbow-colored dyes to metalworkers hammering intricate designs and spice merchants whose stalls overflow with aromatic treasures. This was without a doubt our favorite market.

Staying in Riads

Riads offer an authentic and luxurious way to experience Moroccan hospitality. These traditional houses, built around central courtyards, have been converted into intimate guesthouses that preserve architectural heritage while providing modern comfort. The typical riad features ornate tile work, carved cedar ceilings, and a peaceful interior garden

that offers respite from the bustling streets outside.

Many riads serve traditional mint tea upon arrival and provide rooftop terraces where you can watch the sunset over ancient city walls. The personal service and attention to detail in these family-run establishments creates a home-away-from-home feeling that hotels simply cannot match.

Lisa and I having breakfast in the courtyard of our riad. Notice the tile work and carved doors!

Our riad's courtyard where we were served breakfast and afternoon mint tea and cookies.

Culinary Delights

Moroccan cuisine is a celebration of flavors, combining Berber, Arabic, and Mediterranean influences into dishes that are both comforting and exotic. Tagine, the country's signature cooking vessel, slow-cooks meat and vegetables with preserved lemons and olives in the iconic cone-shaped clay pot. Couscous, traditionally served on Fridays, features fluffy semolina grains topped with vegetables and meat in a fragrant broth. Pastilla, a delicate pastry filled with spiced meat or seafood and dusted with cinnamon, represents the sophisticated side of Moroccan cooking. Harira soup, rich with tomatoes, lentils, and chickpeas, provides comfort especially during Ramadan. Fresh bread accompanies every meal, often baked in communal neighborhood ovens, while mint tea serves as both a welcome drink and a ritual of hospitality.

Islamic Culture and Hospitality

Morocco's Islamic heritage permeates daily life in beautiful and welcoming ways. The call to prayer echoes five times daily from minarets across every city, creating a rhythm that locals have followed for centuries. Not having experienced a muslim country before, I must say it was a bit eerie to hear that call to prayer while we were walking the markets to see muslims stop what they were doing to rush into their mosque. My daughter suggested we stop as well, and take a few minutes of silence to give thanks and be grateful for our good health, families, and friends. This made it a wonderful acknowledgment and a good practice for us as well.

Moroccan Muslims practice a tolerant form of Islam that embraces visitors regardless of their faith. I’ll never forget one elderly shopkeeper who greeted us as we entered his wool shop. He asked where we were from and when I answered the United States, he replied with genuine kindness saying, “our god loves America too!”

The concept of hospitality in Islamic culture means guests are treated with exceptional warmth and generosity. Many travelers find themselves invited into homes for tea or meals, experiencing firsthand the genuine kindness that characterizes Moroccan society. We did meet several young men (most of the women are home tending to the children) who invited us to meet their mothers and to join them for afternoon tea and cookies in their homes.

Train Travel

Morocco's train system provides a comfortable and scenic way to travel between major cities. We found the trains to be clean, modern, punctual, and very safe. The journey from Casablanca to Rabat takes just over an hour along the coast, while the ride to Fez winds through diverse landscapes of rolling hills and olive groves. Unfortunately, Chefchaouen requires a combination of train and bus travel, as the mountain location isn't connected to the rail network. The large picture windows provide excellent opportunities for photography as you watch Morocco's countryside unfold.

Morocco rewards travelers who come with open hearts and curious minds. Each city offers its own personality while contributing to a larger story of a country that honors its past while embracing the future. The memories made here—from sipping mint tea on a riad rooftop to getting lost in ancient medinas—become treasures that last a lifetime. Our trip was certainly memorable and worth going back to explore areas we did not have enough time to visit. Throughout our travels as two women traveling alone, we never felt unsafe even returning to our riad late into the evening. I would highly recommend a trip to Morocco to those with curious and open minds and a sense of adventure!